cauliflower gratin Game Day Cheese & Spice Overload

Football Food

Posted on Feb 5, 2017

There are very few topics that interest me less than politics or sports. After suffering last year’s political pundits ad nauseam, it’s time this weekend to try my best to avoid the hype over that big football game they have down in the States. My grocery yesterday was awash in all sorts of ‘game day’ promotions which, I suppose, is the silver lining to a bunch of giant guys ramming into each other trying to catch a ball.

I do enjoy most any excuse to get people together for shared food and I suppose watching the high-budget adverts of the game are as good a reason as any. Of course I’d say the same thing about a stack of brush trimmings that need burning as a bonfire or the first day of fresh strawberry picking season. Pot luck and casserole fare is the norm for this weekend and if there is something good about this newest food tradition in North America it’s that there are none of the rigid culinary rules usually stapled to the old holidays. There are inspired greats and pandering stodge to be found bubbling away in the party kitchens of many today. Fabulous vats of chili, various tips of chickens soaked in hot sauces, and nachos galore. Granted if you work booze and bacon into any of those recipes the crowd will love you.

For my own afternoon I’m going to indulge in a giant muffelata sandwich, a fondue pot overflowing with my pedestrian but popular queso cheese dip, and because you can never have enough cheese for such occasions, a deliciously rich cauliflower gratin laced with extra spice. My standard gratin rules apply to the latter and it can be done in no time for one or a crowd. Crusty bread on the side is mandatory for dipping and you could even stuff pitas for veg sandwiches if the mood strikes. Carnivores will never notice it’s ‘just veg’ in my experience on this one.

I might even get around to tuning in the football game before it’s over at this rate.

Spiced Cauliflower Cheese

For a different take on the same idea, check out the Hairy Biker’s version in their latest series “Comfort Food”. I make more sauce and twist the spices differently but you can see that great minds think alike when it comes to roasting cauliflower.

1 large head of cauliflower, cleaned and broken into large florets
2 teaspoons cumin seeds, whole
2 teaspoons brown mustard seeds, whole
1 – 4 teaspoon pure chile flakes, any heat level as desired (e.g. guajillo or chipotle)
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt (adjusted to taste and cheese used)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons flour (or corn starch)
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard (homemade preferred)
150 ml half cream (18%)
1 lemon, juice and zest
100 g Gruyere, shredded
25 g Parmesan, finely grated

Crusty bread or pitas (for serving)

Yield: Serves 4-6 depending on the venue, the size of the cauliflower, and how much bread you include on the table. Recipe can be doubled as long as you keep the cauliflower in a single layer when baking.

Bring two quarts of water to the boil and salt well. Blanch the cauliflower in the water for five minutes then immediately drain and run under tap water to cool. Preheat the oven to 190C (375F).

In a dry saucepan over medium heat, toast the cumin briefly until fragrant, about two minutes. Remove and grind fine in an electric coffee mill or mortar. Return to the pan with the mustard seeds, chile flakes, sea salt, oil, and butter until fragrant and the mustard seeds begin to pop, about a minute longer. Add the flour and Dijon and whisk until no lumps remain. Cook for a further minute. Add the cream with an equal measure of water and whisk constantly until slightly thickened. Add the Gruyere and whisk until fully melted. Adjust the salt to taste then remove from heat.

In a shallow baking dish, toss the cooled cauliflower with the lemon zest and arrange in a single layer. Pour the cheese sauce over and between the florets being sure to leave a few bits of cauliflower exposed on top. Bake for twenty minutes. Top with Parmesan and return to the oven a further ten minutes. Switch to broil in the last few minutes as needed to make a golden brown top.

Serve piping hot with lemon juice drizzled over and plenty of bread for dipping.

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