Most mornings I want something with my tea but stale packaged biscuits (“cookies” to the Americans) just aren’t my mood. Full on cookery efforts for something elaborate aren’t always the best idea in my bleary-eyed early hours so I came up with a small batch take on scones to fill the void between buckwheat pancakes and eggs Benedict in a hurry. They’re a cross between the spartan UK versions and the overloaded extra sweet North American sort. A small addition of cranberries and orange zest to plain recipes but not as much sugar as you’d get in a commercially viable Starbucks example. And I’m not going anywhere near pronunciation debate.
Grating frozen butter makes for the perfect texture without having to resort to exotic machinery or mixing trickery so long as you work quickly. One bowl and a flexible plastic pastry scraper is all you need. Switch up the cranberries to any dried fruit, chopped as needed, or (lightly toasted) nuts as you prefer but don’t skimp on the citrus zest since it makes a huge impact. I get superb results from 18 % cream which is lighter than 35% (aka “heavy” cream) and denser than milk, both of which failed in tests trying to achieve the perfect scone texture.
From cold start in the morning, these are warm from the oven and on my plate in forty-five minutes with plenty of time to shower in between while they bake. Just remember to turn the knob on your oven first thing so it’s ready by the time your scones are formed. Eat one or two before you head out the door and pack the rest for afternoon teatime. They’re less wonderful on day two so just make a new batch unless of course the alarm clock didn’t go off and you’re in a real hurry.
Four Fast Scones
75 g dried cranberries, raisins, currants, or similar (or substitute lightly toasted nuts)
50 g unsalted butter, frozen
225 g all-purpose flour
125 g white sugar
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
zest of one orange or lemon, freshly grated
175 ml 18% cream (aka “light” or “half” cream) + 2 tablespoons for topping
coarse or “dusting” sugar for topping (optional)
Preheat the oven to 205C (400F) before you start. Cover the cranberries with hot water to soak briefly.
Shred the butter directly into a small mixing bowl on the largest holes of a box grater being careful not to compress the shreds in the bowl. Add the flour first to fill the gaps between the shreds and then add sugar, salt, and baking powder. Grate the citrus zest into the bowl and combine all lightly with your fingers. Add the drained cranberries and toss to coat each with the flour mixture, again using gentle fingers. Fold in the 175 ml cream, only about five turns, and then turn out onto a lightly floured work surface.
Knead very lightly just until combined and form into a rectangle. Fold the dough in thirds onto itself and press into a one-inch thick rectangle. Cut into four equal portions of any shape desired and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment or a silicone mat. Brush the tops with the remaining cream and optional sugar and bake for 18 – 22 minutes until lightly browned, rotating the pan midway during baking. Remove to cool briefly on a wire rack.
Serve while still warm when possible. Clotted cream or marmalade optional. Tea is mandatory.
