(edit: I forgot to take better photos after it cooled and before I got hungry for pie. Which honestly is most of the time.)
No one really knows how chess pie got its name. Late comers have tried to bend the southern accent into justification (“It’s jest pie, Uncle Jed”) but the bottom line is that the origins of the name is a mystery likely never solved. The basis of the recipe however is soundly rooted in egg custard pies of old. Much like pecan pies made in the same southern kitchens or even custard pies found in Europe centuries earlier. What makes it uniquely Southern US however is the strange use of cornmeal to make a crispy crackle crust on top while in the oven like magic. Clever trick that is.
That cornmeal will float to the top of the otherwise routine egg mixture to bake into a top ‘crust’ that adds the smallest amount of texture to each bite. Standard pie dough routine applies here but if you try this with store-bought versions don’t blame me for the pale, uninteresting crust. Watch the video and tell me that making one from scratch doesn’t take mere seconds. If you can’t spend that sort of time you don’t deserve good pie.
* In my experimental days, I’ve used a ground almond tart shell with good results for those afraid of gluten.
The last caveat as with all egg custard desserts is that you have to let this go completely cold and resist the urge to cut into even a slightly warm pie or it will become a runny mess. The cornstarch helps set things but not until it comes back down to room temperature all the way to the centre. You’ve been warmed… erm… warned. As sweet as this pie is, have plenty of strong black coffee and chatty neighbours at the ready. Everyone loves a good pie name mystery.
Chess Pie From Scratch
1 nine-inch pie crust (homemade preferred)
4 large eggs from Happy Chickens
300 grams sugar
50 grams unsalted butter, melted then cooled briefly
3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 -2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons corn starch
3 tablespoons coarse corn meal
Preheat the oven to a fairly low 160C (320F). Prepare a nine-inch pie dish with crust crimping the edges any way you see fit. Return to the fridge to chill as you prepare the filling.
Whisk the eggs and sugar in an upright mixer or by hand with a balloon whisk until light in colour, about three minutes. Add the butter, salt, lemon, and cornstarch whisking thirty seconds longer to blend well. Add the cornmeal and stir to combine ensuring there are no lumps remaining.
Fill the prepared pie crust and bake for 35-45 minutes until the golden brown top forms and crisps slightly and there is only slight ‘wobble’ to the centre when jiggled. Remove to cool completely before slicing, at least two hours but preferably longer. I said COMPLETELY or you’ll have chess pie soup on your hands. Even the fridge might not be a bad idea after the first hour.
– msh v.2.1
