In another fit of spicing, you’re going to need to know how to concoct classic Chinese five-spice. If not today, someday soon. Possibly over the next week as I post some bao experiments. The combination is as follows and like all my blends, should be stored airtight as mixed whole components when possible *. Grind only as needed in your trusty electric blade grinder that’s dedicated to the task and never used for coffee beans as pictured on the box. To clean that workhorse between particularly powerful spice spells like this one, simply grind some dry, uncooked rice.
In darker spice times, import of Sichuan peppercorns (aka Szechuan, Szechwan) was banned in many countries. Not because they were harmful to humans but because of the risk they posed to citrus crops after a rash of citrus canker that had infected most of the supply. The same mandate that saw kaffir lime leaves under fire at the time. Completely unrelated to black peppercorns, these ‘peppercorns’ are actually the outer husks that surround the bitter black seeds of the Chinese prickly ash bush, species Zanthoxylum, which is a member of the citrus family. The best sources will have sifted out most of those seeds leaving only the flavourful reddish-brown husks but any port in a pepper storm might mean you will want to sift out as many black seeds as reasonably possible in cheaper samples.
That sad chapter of spice history is mostly over and they can be found online and in better Asian grocery stores everywhere nowadays. The flavour is unique and cannot be substituted, try as I might have in desperation back then, because not only is it a unique citrus burst but it also numbs your tongue in surprising fashion. I used to say it was like putting your tongue on a live 9-volt battery but a good friend named Dakota took the prize for best description honours. She said it “was like a circus in your mouth”. She still hasn’t lived than one down.
Chinese Five-Spice
Mix by volume
1/2 part whole star anise, broken roughly in a mortar and pestle or similar
1/2 part whole clove, broken roughly in a mortar and pestle or similar
1 part whole fennel seed
1 part cinnamon (cassia) powder *
1 part whole Sichuan peppercorns **
Combine all in an airtight container double the total volume. “Shake mix” before measuring and grind only the amount needed just before use.
* Pre-ground is a necessary evil in the case of cinnamon. I know of no home grinder that can produce a consistently fine powder and believe me I’ve tried them all. Even the best grain mill or burr grinder leaves granular texture that requires further sifting and grinding… over and over and over. Just buy your pre-ground in small lots and keep it turned regularly. Whole sticks or even broken cinnamon chips WILL break the blades of most home coffee mills within just a few attempts. I’ve killed many grinders in my day. Trust me on this.
** Sift out any bitter black seeds present as best you can. “Scrubbing” between two palms can help separate the flavourful husks from seeds still stuck in the mix. A few left behind won’t hurt much but the highest quality samples will have them already removed.
– msh 1.2
